Pennine Walker, a photographic walking diary

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31st August 2024 - Around Coverdale

Walk Details

Distance walked: 13.3 miles

Total ascent: 2030 ft

OS map used: OL30 - Yorkshire Dales, Northern & Central areas

Time taken: 7 hrs

Route description: Carlton in Coverdale-Melmerby Moor-Penhill-Height of Hazely-Harland Hill-Fleensop Moor-Braidley-Arkleside-Hindlethwaite Hall-Swineside-West Scrafton-River Cover-
Carlton in Coverdale

​My walk for this weekend has taken me to the valley of Coverdale in the Yorkshire Dales, one of the many side valleys of Wensleydale. I decided to walk a route that I did in June 2022 that took in the middle part of the dale from Carlton, with a couple of small alterations. The first was taking a byway up onto Melmerby Moor from Carlton instead of a footpath up through fields, and the second was using field paths to get from Arkleside to Swineside instead of the bridleway across Swineside Moor. On the previous occasion I had problems keeping to it (I'm guessing it doesn't get much use), and I lost it for while until I reached Swineside, but since I was on access land it didn't matter. I enjoyed a fine summer's day for my walk with blue skies, warm sunshine, and just some fair weather clouds from start to finish. With the heather in bloom on the moors I had some great views across carpets of purple to take in.

After parking in Carlton-in-Coverdale I made my way west through the village until I reached a phone-box and track on the right. I took the byway up this track, and then across fields and Melmerby Moor to West Witton Road. On reaching the road I had a short walk north along it to take the bridleway on the left up to Penhill Beacon. Once I'd taken in the view I made my way west along the northern edge of Penhill, past Penhill Scar and Black Scar, then southwest round the edge of the moor until I reached a wall, which I crossed and followed up to the top of Height of Hazely. I then made my way south from Height of Hazely to Harland Hill, where I stopped for lunch. After this break I made my way south from Harland Hill down to the bridleway from Waldendale across Fleensop Moor to Braidley in Coverdale, which I took and followed south across Fleensop Moor and down to the hamlet of Braidley. I then crossed the road through Braidley and took the footpath opposite down to the River Cover, followed the path east by the river to a footbridge, crossed it, and took the path east through fields and then a track down into the hamlet of Arkleside. From Arkleside I took a footpath north through fields to Hindlethwaite Hall, then a footpath northeast up through fields to the hamlet of Swineside, from where I walked down the road to West Scrafton. I made my way through the village to the Methodist Chapel where I took a footpath from the village green by Great Gill to a lane, crossed this and took the footpath opposite up a track between two houses, then a footpath down through fields to the River Cover. Once across the footbridge over the river a footpath took me up through fields and onto a track back to Carlton-in-Coverdale.

Route map
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© Crown copyright. All rights reserved. License number PU 100034184.

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It's a lovely late summer's morning in Carlton-in-Coverdale
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I leave Carlton by taking the byway up onto Melmerby Moor
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Looking back across Coverdale to Great Roova Crags and West Scrafton Moor
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and up Coverdale to Arkleside Moor and Little Whernside
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The byway goes through a red gate to the left of a barn, through fields, then up into the heather on Melmerby Moor...
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The heather on Melmerby Moor is putting on a great display..
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Looking back up Coverdale to Arkleside Moor and Little Whernside
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and across Coverdale to Braithwaite Moor
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and across Wensleydale to Redmire Moor
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Onto the bridleway up Penhill
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Looking back to Middleham High Moor below
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There's a steep climb ahead to reach Penhill Beacon
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At Penhill Beacon and there's a great view to the east, with Coverdale joining Wensleydale beyond Middleham Low Moor
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Looking across Coverdale to Braithwaite Moor
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Melmerby Moor below, with Great Roova Crags and West Scrafton Moor on the other side of Coverdale
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Finally, looking southwest across Coverdale to Arkleside Moor and Little Whernside
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I make my way west along Penhill Scar, from where I take in views of Wensleydale..
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At the trig point on Penhill..
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Having visited the trig point, I cross back over to the other side of the wall and head west to Black Scar
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Looking down Wensleydale from Black Scar..
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..and across Wensleydale to Carperby Moor, Redmire, Redmire Moor, and Bellerby Moor
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As the path contours to the southwest along the edge of the moor the fells around Waldendale and Bishopdale come into view
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Looking west across the foot of Bishopdale and up Wensleydale to Addlebrough, Abbotside Common, Askrigg Common and Carperby Moor
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A short time later and I'm at the rather uninspiring summit of Height of Hazely
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Heading south for Harland Hill with Great Whernside in the distance..
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Descending to the dip that carries the bridleway between Waldendale and Coverdale
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Looking back to Height of Hazely as I make my way up Harland Hill
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​At the small collection of stones that mark the top of Harland Hill. Buckden Pike in the distance at the head of Waldendale.
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Height of Hazely to the north
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Heading south from Harland Hill to pick up the bridleway across Fleensop Moor. I have a great view of Buckden Pike at the head of Waldendale..
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Buckden Pike, Waldendale, Naughtberry Hill, and Wasset Fell
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The broad expanse of Fleensop Moor ahead
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and more of it as I turn left and look across Coverdale to West Scrafton Moor and Arkleside Moor
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Looking back to Harland Hill
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The final descent from Harland Hill to pick up the bridleway across Fleensop Moor to Coverdale
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Heading south on the bridleway across Fleensop Moor
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Looking back to Harland Hill
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Heather in bloom on Fleensop Moor
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Following the bridleway south to cross the top of Elm Gill
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Looking down Fleemis Gill to Coverdale
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Having crossed the top of Elm Gill the bridleway continues south across Fleensop Moor
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Looking back north across Fleensop Moor
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Reaching this gate means that the bridleway will start to descend into Coverdale
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Blue skies above Fleensop Moor
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One last look back across Fleensop Moor to Harland Hill
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Following the bridleway down to Braidley in Coverdale....
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I've ​crossed the road from the bridleway and taken a footpath down to the River Cover
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Across the River Cover and then onto the footpath towards Arkleside..
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Following the footpath to Arkleside
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A track takes me to the end of the road at the hamlet of Arkleside
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Freshly mown fields at Arkleside
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From Arkleside I take a footpath through fields on the hillside above the River Cover
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Looking across Coverdale to Horsehouse
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The footpath heads down a track to Hindlethwaite Hall
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From Hindlethwaite Hall I take a footpath northeast across fields to Swineside. Looking across Coverdale to Carlton Moor and Melmerby Moor..
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..and back to Hindlethwaite Hall, with Horsehouse on the hillside behind
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As I approach Swineside there are a number of narrow stiles in walls to negotiate. Looking across Coverdale to Carlton Moor and Melmerby Moor..
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..and there's a great view of Little Whernside and Coverdale from here
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Following the footpath into the hamlet of Swineside..
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Arkleside Moor and Little Whernside from the end of the road at Swineside
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From the hamlet of Swineside I have a walk down the road to West Scrafton
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Great Roova Crags to my right
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Walking down the road into West Scrafton..
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Great Roova Crags from Bow Bridge in West Scrafton
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Leaving West Scrafton I take a footpath north through fields and down to the River Cover
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Crossing the River Cover
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A last look across Coverdale to Great Roova Crags, West Scrafton, and West Scrafton Moor as I make it back to Carlton

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© Alan Kilduff 2016-2025                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      
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