Pennine Walker, a photographic walking diary

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3rd March 2024 - Great Whernside

Walk Details

Distance walked: 11.6 miles

Total ascent: 2088 ft

OS map used: OL30 - Yorkshire Dales, Northern & Central areas

Time taken: 7.5 hrs

Route description: Kettlewell-Dales Way-Starbotton-Starbotton Cam Road-Starbotton Road-Hunters Sleets-Blackfell Top-Great Whernside-Sweet Hill-Slatepit Rigg-Kettlewell


As with last weekend an opportunity for a walk in snow has presented itself, and I can't imagine that there'll be many more before the warmer spring weather arrives. The snowfall was restricted to the high fells so I had to pick my destination carefully, which was why I went for Great Whernside from Kettlewell. It's a fell that I've climbed several times when it's been covered in snow, so I know what I'm letting myself in for and where any of the difficult spots might be when there's snow on the ground. The route that I went for on this occasion was new, but I've actually walked all the sections of it at one time or another. Because of the bogginess of the ground and it being covered in patchy snow, I opted for following the fence south across Whernside Pasture to the moorland edge north of Capplestone Gate instead of the more direct route down to Slatepit Rigg. The forecast was for a fine day, with early low cloud breaking and lifting clear of the summits to give some sunshine. I set off from Kettlewell with dull and overcast skies, not a promising start, but by the time I was heading up the bridleway of Starbotton Cam Road from Starbotton the cloud was starting to break and lift, so that after midday there was a mix of cloud and sunny intervals, although the high cloud that spread in during the afternoon made that weak and hazy.

From the car park in Kettlewell I set off by crossing the bridge over the River Wharfe and taking the trail of the Dales Way north towards Starbotton. When the trail reached the bridge over the river I crossed it and followed the bridleway into Starbotton. I then crossed the main road up the valley and walked through the village to reach the track and bridleway of Starbotton Cam Road. I followed this uphill and then across the hillside to the bridleway of Starbotton Road that took me to Hunters Sleets and the Kettlewell to Coverdale road. After crossing the road I took the path up the slopes of Great Whernside to Black Dike End, Blackfell Top and finally the trig point and summit, where I stopped for a late lunch. After this break I made my way to Great Whernside's south top, then followed the fence south to Sweet Hill and down across the moorland of Whernside Pasture to reach the footpath on the western edge of Conistone Moor north of Capplestone Gate. I then made my way north along on the edge of the moor to Slatepit Rigg until I reached the bridleway down to Kettlewell. This bridleway took me down to Scabbate Gate, and I then walked through Kettlewell back to the car park.

Route map
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© Crown copyright. All rights reserved. License number PU 100034184.

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After crossing the bridge over the River Wharfe from Kettlewell, I take the trail of the Dales Way
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Following the Dales Way north towards Starbotton...
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Looking back down Wharfedale
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I can now make out Starbotton on the other side of the valley
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The River Wharfe from the footbridge across it..
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Heading for Starbotton
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Making my way through the hamlet of Starbotton
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Looking back down on the roofs of Starbotton as I take the bridleway of Starbotton Cam Road
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Heading uphill and the weather does seem to be improving, with the cloud lifting and the sun breaking through
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Heading up the bridleway of Starbotton Road
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I get a great view up Wharfedale when I turn around
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My ultimate destination of Great Whernside comes into view
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The bridleway of Top Mere Road that has come up from Kettlewell is about to join Starbotton Road
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Looking across to the western slopes of Great Whernside. The low cloud has nearly cleared its summit, hopefully it will have by the time I get there.
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I follow the bridleway across the embankment of Tor Dike
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Looking down the valley of Cam Gill and Wharfedale towards Barden Moor
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Crossing Hunters Sleets to the Kettlewell to Coverdale road
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Unfortunately the boggy ground of Little Hunters Sleets isn't frozen beneath the snow as I head up Great Whernside. What I am pleased about though, it looks like the summit is clear of cloud.
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Looking back across Hunters Sleets to Buckden Pike as I make my way up onto Great Whernside
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Deep soft snow to negotiate as I head up to Black Dike End
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Looking back to the snow capped fells of Fountains Fell, Penyghent, Plover Hill, Birks Fell and Whernside in the distance
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Angram Reservoir, Scar House Reservoir, and Nidderdale
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Fountains Fell, Penyghent, Plover Hill, Birks Fell, Whernside and Buckden Pike from Black Dike End
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Looking south to Blackfell Top
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The snow covered moorland of Black Dike End and Nidd Head..
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Looking back along the moorland ridge as I head south to Blackfell Top
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The summit of Great Whernside to the south from Blackfell Top
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Fountains Fell, Penyghent, Ingleborough, Plover Hill, Birks Fell and Whernside to the west
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Buckden Pike to the north
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It's cold enough for rime ice to hang onto this fence
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Leaving Blackfell Top with a view of Penyghent, Plover Hill, Birks Fell, Whernside, and Buckden Pike to the west and northwest
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Heading for the trig point and summit of Great Whernside
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At the trig point on Great Whernside
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Taking in the view from Great Whernside, starting with that to the southwest. A hazy outline of Pendle Hill in the distance on the left; then to the right, Middlesmoor Pasture, and the limestone moorland to the north and east of Malham Tarn.
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 To the west, Fountains Fell, Penyghent, Ingleborough, Plover Hill, Birks Fell and Whernside
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Buckden Pike to the north
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A final shot from the trig point, looking west to Fountains Fell, Penyghent, Ingleborough, Plover Hill, Birks Fell and Whernside
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I'm going leave the trig point and cross the snow covered moor to the south top
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Looking back to the trig point..
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..as I head for the south top
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At the south top of Great Whernside
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Looking back to the summit of Great Whernside
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and down Wharfedale to Barden Fell and Barden Moor
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The fence that I'll follow to Sweet Hill, with Pendle Hill in the distance
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On Sweet Hill, looking back to the south top
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and south down Wharfedale to Barden Moor, with Pendle Hill in the distance on the right
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Fountains Fell, Penyghent, Ingleborough, Plover Hill, Whernside, Birks Fell and Yockenthwaite Moor in the distance
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From Sweet Hill I'm following the fence down across Whernside Pasture. I'm expecting to have to negotiate some boggy ground.
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Looking back to Great Whernside
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Firmer ground not far away as I approach the wall that runs along the edge of the moor
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I reach the path along the western edge of Conistone Moor that runs north from Capplestone Gate
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Heading north along the edge of the moor to Slatepit Rigg
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Looking ​across Wharfedale and Littondale to Fountains Fell, Darnbrook Fell, and Old Cote Moor Top
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I reach the top of the bridleway down to Kettlewell..
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..which I'll follow all the way down to the village
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Looking across the top of Dowber Gill to Great Whernside
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Following the bridleway down to Kettlewell..
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Looking up Dowber Gill to the top of Great Whernside
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Returning to Kettlewell, and the sun puts in a final appearance for the day

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© Alan Kilduff 2016-2026                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      
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