11th September 2019 - Kisdon, Rogan's Seat and Gunnerside Gill
Walk Details
Distance walked: 13.0 miles
Total ascent: 2311 ft
OS map used: OL30 - Yorkshire Dales, Northern & Central areas
Time taken: 7 hrs
Route description: Muker-Kisdon-Pennine Way-Crackpot Hall-Swinner Gill-East Grain-Rogan's Seat-Lownathwaite-Gunnerside Gill-Dyke Heads-Shoregill Head-Gunnerside Lodge-Ramps Holme Farm-Ramps Holme Bridge-Muker
For the second day of my Swaledale trip I've driven up the dale from Reeth to Muker to do a walk that will take in the Swaledale gorge and some of the moors that surround the upper part of the valley. I took this route from one of my guidebooks but decided to add the "there and back" to the summit of Rogan's Seat to it. It seemed to make sense to take it in as I was passing close by anyway and it will probably be some time before I have another opportunity. Overnight rain had already cleared by the time I was having breakfast at my guesthouse in Reeth and the forecast was for a mostly fine day with a mixture of sunshine and cloud, but windy, especially up on the moors. The strength and cool feel of that wind made it positively autumnal up on Rogan's Seat and did nothing for what was a dull and uninspiring summit. My favourite part of the day was following the Pennine Way along the side of Kisdon Hill in the morning. There were great views of the Swale gorge to enjoy.
After parking in the car park at the eastern end of Muker I crossed the bridge over Straw Beck and walked into the centre of the village. I then walked up the lane past the literary institute, village hall and around some cottages and onto the bridleway signposted for Keld, which I followed up onto Kisdon to meet the trail of the Pennine Way. I followed the Pennine Way north along the side of Kisdon Hill, then down to and across the River Swale just south of Keld and up to the bridleway by East Gill Force, where I stopped for lunch at a conveniently placed bench. After my break I continued by taking the bridleway east above the River Swale, then the footpath up to and past Crackpot Hall and into the ravine of Swinner Gill. I followed this path up Swinner Gill, across the bridge over Hind Hole Beck and then up East Grain to meet a shooter's track across the moors to Gunnerside Gill. As the track reached the top of the moor I left it for another one, which I followed north to the summit of Rogan's Seat. After returning from Rogan's Seat I carried on heading east along the track to Gunnerside Gill, then south to Botcher Gill Gate and above Gunnerside Beck to leave the valley of Gunnerside Gill and reach the road at Dyke Heads. I then walked west along the road past Shoregill Head, down to and across the bridge over Shore Gill, then up to a junction where I turned right and walked west along the road past Calvert Houses and to its end at Ramps Holme Farm. At the end of the road I took the bridleway down to Ramps Holme Bridge over the River Swale and then once across, the footpath south back to Muker.
Total ascent: 2311 ft
OS map used: OL30 - Yorkshire Dales, Northern & Central areas
Time taken: 7 hrs
Route description: Muker-Kisdon-Pennine Way-Crackpot Hall-Swinner Gill-East Grain-Rogan's Seat-Lownathwaite-Gunnerside Gill-Dyke Heads-Shoregill Head-Gunnerside Lodge-Ramps Holme Farm-Ramps Holme Bridge-Muker
For the second day of my Swaledale trip I've driven up the dale from Reeth to Muker to do a walk that will take in the Swaledale gorge and some of the moors that surround the upper part of the valley. I took this route from one of my guidebooks but decided to add the "there and back" to the summit of Rogan's Seat to it. It seemed to make sense to take it in as I was passing close by anyway and it will probably be some time before I have another opportunity. Overnight rain had already cleared by the time I was having breakfast at my guesthouse in Reeth and the forecast was for a mostly fine day with a mixture of sunshine and cloud, but windy, especially up on the moors. The strength and cool feel of that wind made it positively autumnal up on Rogan's Seat and did nothing for what was a dull and uninspiring summit. My favourite part of the day was following the Pennine Way along the side of Kisdon Hill in the morning. There were great views of the Swale gorge to enjoy.
After parking in the car park at the eastern end of Muker I crossed the bridge over Straw Beck and walked into the centre of the village. I then walked up the lane past the literary institute, village hall and around some cottages and onto the bridleway signposted for Keld, which I followed up onto Kisdon to meet the trail of the Pennine Way. I followed the Pennine Way north along the side of Kisdon Hill, then down to and across the River Swale just south of Keld and up to the bridleway by East Gill Force, where I stopped for lunch at a conveniently placed bench. After my break I continued by taking the bridleway east above the River Swale, then the footpath up to and past Crackpot Hall and into the ravine of Swinner Gill. I followed this path up Swinner Gill, across the bridge over Hind Hole Beck and then up East Grain to meet a shooter's track across the moors to Gunnerside Gill. As the track reached the top of the moor I left it for another one, which I followed north to the summit of Rogan's Seat. After returning from Rogan's Seat I carried on heading east along the track to Gunnerside Gill, then south to Botcher Gill Gate and above Gunnerside Beck to leave the valley of Gunnerside Gill and reach the road at Dyke Heads. I then walked west along the road past Shoregill Head, down to and across the bridge over Shore Gill, then up to a junction where I turned right and walked west along the road past Calvert Houses and to its end at Ramps Holme Farm. At the end of the road I took the bridleway down to Ramps Holme Bridge over the River Swale and then once across, the footpath south back to Muker.
Route map
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Muker as I cross the bridge over Straw Beck
Looking back down on Swaledale and Muker as I climb the bridleway onto Kisdon
Great Shunner Fell in the distance on the right and I can also see the road climbing up to the Buttertubs pass
Following the bridleway up onto Kisdon and I'll soon join the Pennine Way as it comes in from the left
Looking back down into Swaledale
Onto the Pennine Way and it takes to the side of Kisdon Hill above the Swale gorge. I'm anticipating some great views as I follow it north....
Looking across Swaledale to the ravine of Swinner Gill. I'll be heading up there later in the day.
A couple more photos of the Swale gorge from the Pennine Way as it heads down towards the River Swale..
Pennine Way signpost
Before the Pennine Way drops down to cross the River Swale, I get a view up the dale upstream of Keld
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Following the Pennine Way down to and across the River Swale
As soon as the Pennine Way has crossed the Swale then the waterfalls on East Gill are met
The main fall of East Gill Force is well worth a visit...
My lunch stop just above East Gill Force is where I leave the Pennine Way and join AW's Coast to Coast walk. It was a great spot for taking a break.
Looking back to the hamlet of Keld on the hillside in the distance as I follow the bridleway to Swinner Gill
I left the bridleway for the footpath past the ruins of Crackpot Hall
Looking down Swaledale from Crackpot Hall
Heading into Swinner Gill
Looking down Swinner Gill to Swaledale
The footpath I'm following will take me across Swinner Gill and up the ravine of East Grain
Across the bridge over Hind Hole Beck
Past the mine ruins in East Grain
Looking back down East Grain as I climb up onto the moors
and as I reach the top of East Grain the view opens out to the west, with Great Shunner Fell on the left and High Seat (above Mallerstang) on the right
Looking back with High Seat and Nine Standards Rigg in the distance as I follow a shooter's track across the moor
The moorland pools of Moss Dam to the south with Oxnop Common and Lovely Seat on the other side of Swaledale
Looking across the moorland around Gunnerside Gill to Swaledale
One shooter's track has been left for another, and this one will take me north to the summit of Rogan's Seat
As I gain height I can see the high fells of Great Whernside and Buckden Pike way to the south
On the summit of Rogan's Seat. I've been on a few dull and uninspiring summits in my time and this one is near the top of the list. High Seat and Nine Standards are in view to the west.
Lovely Seat and Great Shunner Fell to the southwest
Hazy North Pennines moors in the distance
The nearby fell of Water Crag to the northeast
Lovely Seat, Great Shunner Fell and High Seat
The sun is back out as I make my way down the track from Rogan's Seat..
..and back onto the track to Gunnerside Gill
Heading south on the bridleway above Gunnerside Gill
A nice little waterfall in Botcher Gill
Gunnerside Gill as I follow the bridleway south....
Looking back up Gunnerside Gill
The bridleway leaves Gunnerside Gill and heads west into Swaledale
Sunshine on the village of Gunnerside
Looking east down Swaledale from above Dyke Heads
and again from above Gunnerside Lodge
Heading west along the road to Ramps Holme Farm and it's a decidedly cool and windy end to the afternoon
Muker on the other side of the Swale
The Swale from Ramps Holme Bridge
Back to Muker from Ramps Holme Bridge