Pennine Walker, a photographic walking diary

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12th September 2019 - Muker to Keld and back

Walk Details

Distance walked: 5.6 miles

Total ascent: 893 ft

OS map used: OL30 - Yorkshire Dales, Northern & Central areas

Time taken: 5 hrs

Route description: Muker-A Pennine Journey-Rukin Wood-Pennine Way-Kisdon Force-Pennine Way-Keld-Pennine Way-East Gill Force-bridleway on eastern side of Swaledale-Ramps Holme Bridge-A Pennine Journey-Muker


Today was forecast to have the worst weather of my Swaledale stay and it certainly turned out that way. In fact, it was worse than I expected it to be, with drizzle already falling as I left Muker and this only became heavier and more persistent into the afternoon. With a strong wind blowing it around it wasn't the most pleasant of days for a walk. With this poor weather expected I'd decided to do a relatively short and low level walk from Muker to Keld and back that would take in the waterfall of Kisdon Force. This was the definite highlight of the day and I'm certain that I'll visit it again when there's a fine day in the offing. I took my time with the walk, spending quite a while at Kisdon Force (care was needed getting down to it), and stopping off at Park Lodge in Keld for some lunch.

​After parking in the car park at the eastern end of Muker I crossed the bridge over Straw Beck and walked into the centre of the village. I then walked up the lane past the literary institute, village hall and around some cottages and onto the footpath to Keld that's part of AW's "A Pennine Journey". I followed this path north across fields to Ramps Holme Bridge, and then north by the west bank of the Swale to Rukin Wood, where it heads uphill to join the trail of the Pennine Way. Shortly after joining the Pennine Way I left it for a path on the right, signposted for Kisdon Force. The descent to the waterfall was a bit tricky with mud and wet rocks to negotiate. Once I'd returned to the Pennine Way I carried on following it towards Keld, then took the bridleway to Keld when the Pennine Way turned right to head down to cross the Swale. After stopping for lunch in Keld I returned to the Pennine Way and followed it down to, across the Swale and up to the bridleway across East Gill. I then walked south along this bridleway on the eastern side of Swaledale to Ramps Holme Bridge, and after crossing the bridge, took the footpath back to Muker.

Route map
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© Crown copyright. All rights reserved. License number PU 100034184.

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Sunshine and drizzle make for rainbows over Muker. The rainbow appeared during the last few minutes drive towards the village and I hoped that it would last until I could get a chance to take a picture. In fact it lasted for quite a while.
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Sunshine, mist and drizzle as I leave Muker
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There's a hint of a rainbow on the side of Kisdon Hill..
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A rainbow accompanies me as I follow the path north towards Ramps Holme Bridge.....
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Swaledale views from the path to Keld....
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Ruined farms backed by Swinner Gill
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The path I've been following from Muker meets the Pennine Way, which I was on yesterday
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and soon after joining the Pennine Way I leave it for the path down to Kisdon Force. This small waterfall is the first one I come to and is above the main falls.
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The upper falls of Kisdon Force..
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The lower falls
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Both waterfalls
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The lower falls
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The waterfalls of Kisdon Force. I'd brought my tripod and ND filter in anticipation of taking some long exposure photos, but with the strong wind blowing the drizzle around I found it impossible to keep the lens dry. I can definitely see myself coming back here on fine day to try again though.
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From Kisdon Force I returned to the Pennine Way and followed it towards Keld. I'm going to leave it for a while and pay Keld a visit.
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Dull and wet in Swaledale
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After having some lunch at Park Lodge I'll have a quick look around Keld before heading back. An information board provides some history about the village.
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The literary institute is now a local resource centre
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I've returned to the Pennine Way from Keld and cross the River Swale
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I have another opportunity to take in the waterfall of East Gill Force...
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No let up in the rain and drizzle
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Heading south on the bridleway above the River Swale
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At the foot of Swinner Gill
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A couple of photos of Swaledale as I head back to Muker..
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Across the Swale via Ramps Holme Bridge
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Back in Muker and I'm looking forward to getting out of my waterproofs

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© Alan Kilduff 2016-2025                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      
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