22nd October 2023 - Whernside
Walk Details
Distance walked: 12.2 miles
Total ascent: 1838 ft
OS map used: OL2 - Yorkshire Dales, Southern & Western areas
Time taken: 7 hrs
Route description: Ribblehead-Gunnerfleet Farm-Ivescar-Bruntscar-Ellerbeck-Blake Bank-West Fell End-West Fell-Combe Scar-Whernside-Whernside Tarns-Dales High Way-Ribblehead
After my first ascent of the year of Ingleborough last weekend it was the turn of Whernside for this weekend. The last time I did a walk up Whernside was last October, and it was by this particular route, which takes in the fell's southwest ridge and Whernside Tarns. For most of the time this is a quiet walk, which is what I'm looking for more often than not, except for when it coincides with the popular route up from Ribblehead, but even that was pretty quiet today. The forecast was for a fine autumn day with a reasonable amount of sunshine, but with a pretty strong wind up the moors. As I was crossing the moor to the cairn on the hillside near Whernside Tarns that has the best view of Dentdale, a line of cloud blocked out the sun and spoilt it by casting a deep shadow. It's by far my favourite of the walk, so I was prepared to wait for a while for the sun to return. It was worth it, the combination of sunlit hillsides and fair weather clouds might be the best that I've had.
From the laybys at Ribblehead I set off by taking the track to and under the viaduct to reach Gunnerfleet Farm. Here I turned right onto the byway to Winterscales and when that came to an end I turned left onto the bridleway to Scar End. I followed this southwest past Ivescar, Broadrake, Bruntscar and Ellerbeck to reach the moorland of Blake Bank. It was at this point that I decided to find a convenient place to get up onto Whernside's southwest ridge. Once on it there was a long, gradual ascent up West Fell and Combe Scar to finally arrive on the summit of Whernside, where I stopped for lunch. After this break I continued by taking the main path back to Ribblehead as it heads north but just before it turns to the right and goes downhill I crossed a stile to gain access to the moorland where Whernside Tarns are situated. A fairly clear path heads north towards them and the cairns beyond. I then had to head north again to the right of the easternmost of a set of enclosures to the find the trail of the Dales High Way. I followed this east then south, down Little Dale, and all the way to Bleamoor Sidings before leaving it for the path back to Ribblehead.
Total ascent: 1838 ft
OS map used: OL2 - Yorkshire Dales, Southern & Western areas
Time taken: 7 hrs
Route description: Ribblehead-Gunnerfleet Farm-Ivescar-Bruntscar-Ellerbeck-Blake Bank-West Fell End-West Fell-Combe Scar-Whernside-Whernside Tarns-Dales High Way-Ribblehead
After my first ascent of the year of Ingleborough last weekend it was the turn of Whernside for this weekend. The last time I did a walk up Whernside was last October, and it was by this particular route, which takes in the fell's southwest ridge and Whernside Tarns. For most of the time this is a quiet walk, which is what I'm looking for more often than not, except for when it coincides with the popular route up from Ribblehead, but even that was pretty quiet today. The forecast was for a fine autumn day with a reasonable amount of sunshine, but with a pretty strong wind up the moors. As I was crossing the moor to the cairn on the hillside near Whernside Tarns that has the best view of Dentdale, a line of cloud blocked out the sun and spoilt it by casting a deep shadow. It's by far my favourite of the walk, so I was prepared to wait for a while for the sun to return. It was worth it, the combination of sunlit hillsides and fair weather clouds might be the best that I've had.
From the laybys at Ribblehead I set off by taking the track to and under the viaduct to reach Gunnerfleet Farm. Here I turned right onto the byway to Winterscales and when that came to an end I turned left onto the bridleway to Scar End. I followed this southwest past Ivescar, Broadrake, Bruntscar and Ellerbeck to reach the moorland of Blake Bank. It was at this point that I decided to find a convenient place to get up onto Whernside's southwest ridge. Once on it there was a long, gradual ascent up West Fell and Combe Scar to finally arrive on the summit of Whernside, where I stopped for lunch. After this break I continued by taking the main path back to Ribblehead as it heads north but just before it turns to the right and goes downhill I crossed a stile to gain access to the moorland where Whernside Tarns are situated. A fairly clear path heads north towards them and the cairns beyond. I then had to head north again to the right of the easternmost of a set of enclosures to the find the trail of the Dales High Way. I followed this east then south, down Little Dale, and all the way to Bleamoor Sidings before leaving it for the path back to Ribblehead.
Route map
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The Ribblehead Viaduct and Whernside as I set off from Ribblehead
On the bridleway to Gunnerfleet Farm
Looking across the moorland to my left to Park Fell, Simon Fell, and Ingleborough
Park Fell, Simon Fell and Ingleborough behind Gunnerfleet Farm
On the bridleway past Ivescar Farm
Long shadows and Ingleborough to my left
Looking back to the Ribblehead Viaduct
Following the bridleway past Bruntscar
Looking back to the Ribblehead Viaduct from Bruntscar
Whernside above Ellerbeck
The bridleway to Scar End heads across Blake Bank Moss
Looking back to a distant Ribblehead Viaduct
Looking across Scales Moor to Ingleborough as I climb up onto Whernside's southwest ridge
and looking back to a distant Ribblehead Viaduct
At West Fell End on Whernside's southwest ridge. Looking down the ridge to Scar End, with the Forest of Bowland in the distance.
Time to start the long climb to Whernside's distant summit
Gragareth, Kingsdale Head, and Great Coum, on the other side of the wall
Ingleborough as I cross the wall onto the moorland of Combe Scar
The Howgills in the distance through the gap in the hills between Great Coum and Whernside
The summit of Whernside is now in sight
A great view across Chapel-le-Dale to Ingleborough as I reach the final climb to the summit
Looking down the summit ridge to the Forest of Bowland in the distance
Heading up onto the summit ridge of Whernside
The Ribblehead Viaduct below
After a break for lunch, taking in the view from Whernside. Looking north along the summit ridge.
Ingleborough on the left, with the Forest of Bowland in cloud to the south
Gragareth to the southwest on the other side of Kingsdale
Great Coum and distant Lake Disrtict fells to the northwest
The trig point on Whernside
Looking back south along the summit ridge with Ingleborough on the left..
..I head north towards Whernside Tarns, with Greensett Tarn below on the right
The main path has been left behind for the one to Whernside Tarns. Looking north to the Howgills, Aye Gill Pike, Baugh Fell, and High Seat.
Great views from the windswept Whernside Tarns.....
Two cairns on the shoulder of the moor above Deepdale have a fantastic view down Dentdale. The one a little lower down the hillside has the better, so I'm not going to waste any time and head straight down to it..
I had to wait for a persistent line of cloud to move before I could take in this view with the sun out. It was worth it. Looking down Dentdale, with Middleton Fell on the left, the Howgills and Aye Gill Pike on the right, and the Lake District fells in the distance...
and north to Baugh Fell, Snaizwold Fell, and the moors around Garsdale Head
Heading north down to the track of the Craven Way
On the track of the Craven Way to Little Dale
One last look at the view to the north before I cross the watershed into Little Dale
Penyghent, Ribblesdale and Ingleborough come into view
Whernside above to my right
Heading down into Little Dale
The lower waterfall in Force Gill
Heading back to Ribblehead..
Back at the Ribblehead Viaduct, and it's just luck that a train happens to be crossing it, certainly not good timing
Penyghent in the distance down Ribblesdale
The Ribblehead Viaduct and Whernside as I arrive back at Ribblehead..
